Part of the Minnesota ethos is learning how to settle for something that may not be the very best but is maybe just good enough. It may be a case of our adopted Scandinavian ethic or it may just be the generally accepted Midwestern psyche that somehow allows "just ok" to be the gold standard. I can usually return most of life's conundrums to Mick Jagger's summation of Eastern philosophy. The one that states in his best jeering style that we may not always get what we want...but we almost always get what we need.
The conundrum that concerns me today is the newly opened Mort's Deli in Golden Valley. Since the demise of the Lincoln Del nearly 15 years ago (yes its been that long) the Twin Cities has had to stuff our ample girths into the tiny Cecil's on Cleveland in St. Paul or settle for the few imposter's that would pop up now and then promising an authentic deli experience but usually falling far short of our knish and chopped liver filled dreams. There was a bright but brief hope a few years ago when the late Shelly Jacobs opened Louie's Habit in Wayzata. Shelly captured the soul of a deli albeit in a tiny space that inhibited his ability to produce the expansive menu that is the trademark of great delis. For whatever reason Louie's was but a bright and brief flash on the restaurant scene and disappeared as quickly as it came.
And now there is Mort's. Mort's already feels well established though the doors have been only open less than 90 days. The food looks and tastes solid and the Jewish community seems to have wrapped our schmaltz laden arms around it. Mazel Tov. But I gotta tell you even as solid as it is, I found little to rave about which leads me down the path of well...Mort's is just good enough. Oh I'm ready to recommend it. But my recommendation is mainly based on a gut feeling I have that this is what we need for a deli in Minnesota. Mort's is full of the affectations of a New York deli. I really don't understand the need to make people feel like they need to go to New York for a great deli experience. First of all there are great delis in Toronto, Chicago, Los Angeles and even in St. Louis. So why is it that a deli in Minnesota needs to pretend to be in New York to make us think its good?
Some of the New York affectations Mort's feels they need to take on to make us think this is a real deli include importing meats from the Carnegie Deli in NYC. Real New York delis, like the Carnegie, the Stage, Katz's or the late 2nd Avenue all made their reputations by doing things right and keeping it authentic. They made their own corned beefs, pastramis, pickles etc. They weren't shipping in knishes from thousands of miles away. That's authenticity, that's real deli.
But like I said, Mort's isn't bad. Could it be better? Sure it could. As one deli maven told when we were talking about Mort's, "They just need a little more Jew in the kitchen". The owner of Mort's is the son of a Rabbi I'm told which should be good enough to lend a modest air of authenticity. But in order for Mort's or any deli to be great and deserve the raves one hears about great delis from other cities is to roll up their sleeves and start making at least the corned beef...then someday they can add a few pickles and a knish or two. Hopefully someday someone will come along and take the risk (because the deli business is extremely costly to operate) and make a deli like a deli should be, a little rude, a little noisy, but honest to it's core and hopefully making it not just something we need...but something we crave.
Mort's Delicatessen
525 Winnetka Avenue N.
Golden Valley, MN 55427
763-544-2900
p.s. Hey Mort's, here's a latke recipe for you...please let's call it my housewarming gift. (Some people may like the one you have, but trust me...you really need to replace it)
POTATO PANCAKES (LATKES)
Make about 40 pancakes
10 lbs. Peeled Idaho Potatoes
1 med Onion, peeled
12 large Eggs
4 Tbsp. Kosher Salt
1 Tbsp. White Pepper
1 cup Flour
1 Tbsp. Baking Powder
Grate potatoes and onion together into a colander or strainer set over a bowl to catch the draining liquid. Cover the pan with plastic and let the product drain in the refrigerator for about 20 - 30 minutes.
Remove the potato onion mix to a large mixing bowl. Squeeze a little more excess moisture from the mix with your hands while you are moving the product. Discard the drained liquid.
Beat the eggs with the salt and pepper. Mix the eggs into the potatoes. Combine the baking powder and flour then mix in to the potatoes. This mix cannot sit. Be prepared to fry the pancakes immediately after making the batter.
FRYING THE PANCAKES:
Heat ¼ inch of Oil (Canola or Corn) in a deep-sided skillet to at least 360 degrees. Drop the batter by spoonfuls (about 1/3 cup each) into the hot oil and flatten with the back of a spoon to about ½ inch thick in the center. Fry until golden brown then turn and repeat to the same color.
Remove the pancake to a sheet pan and cool. To reheat, lay out on a lightly greased cookie sheet and bake at 450 degrees for 5-7 minutes, or drop in the deep fryer.
Make fresh daily.
