Burgers are on everyone’s mind these days. From our favorite greasy diners to the haute tablecloth dining rooms of every star Chef, the burger has become the icon of our culinary age. But before we fell in love with this fashionable meat patty on a bun, we had a long and sturdy relationship with the patriarch of ground meat, the Hamburger Steak. The original “Hamburg” steak first appeared in the late 19th century American restaurant scene. Then for the next hundred years, the hamburger steak appeared in one form or another on nearly every dinner menu wishing to take itself seriously as a fine place to eat. The dish started out as nothing more than ground beef, a relatively recent invention at the time, typically broiled or pan fried and served with a sauce of mushrooms, onions or both. Over the years it devolved to an overcooked puck swimming in bad brown gravy, a close relative of the Salisbury Steak which is how too many people think of the hamburger steak these days. We’ve lost the art of this one time menu staple. When it was served in the palaces of fine dining, restaurants like Delmonico’s, The Palmer House or later on The Four Seasons, it was elevated to a plate worthy of its environs. During this heyday of the ground beefsteak, there was neither shame nor diminished enjoyment in ordering the Hamburger Steak on one of these menus. Their kitchens gave the Hamburger Steak the same respect and finishing flourish of sauce as its better heeled brother steaks. Chances are, it was probably fresh ground from the same cuts anyway.
Consider this the first salvo in a campaign to reinstate the greatness of the Hamburger Steak. The recipe below combines the richness of a mushroom duxelle, usually reserved for the pastry wrapped Beef Wellington, with a simply seasoned beef patty lightly crusted with breadcrumbs sautéed in a combination of butter and olive oil, a classically continental preparation method.
Hamburger Steak aux Duxelle
Hamburger Steak
Ground Chuck, 80% lean
Egg
Kosher Salt
Fresh Ground Black Pepper
For 4 servings plan on 1 ½ pounds of beef combined with 1 or 2 large eggs. Season the mixture, mix well and form into 4 oval patties about ¾ of an inch thick. Cover and keep refrigerated.
Mushroom Duxelle
Mushrooms, Crimini or Baby Portobello
Shallots
Unsalted Butter
Fresh Sage
Fresh Flat Leaf Parsley
Red Wine (Cabernet or Claret)
Heavy Cream
Kosher Salt
Fresh Ground Black Pepper
Dice the mushrooms and shallots fine, ¼ inch or less. One mediums sized shallot and 8 oz of mushrooms will be enough for 4 servings.
Melt the butter in a sauté pan, add the mushrooms and shallots. Cook over medium high heat until the mushroom juices have evaporated completely. Add the parsley and sage (more parsley than sage) and the red wine. Cook until the wine has turned thick and syrupy, then add the cream, salt and pepper. Reduce the cream just until its thickened slightly. Remove the pan from the heat.
Finishing the Hamburger Steak
Unsalted Butter
Olive Oil
Italian Style Plain Breadcrumbs
Kosher Salt
Fresh Ground Black Pepper
Heat the oil and butter in a large sauté pan. Remove the beef patties from the fridge and coat with the seasoned breadcrumbs. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook until the steaks are browned well on one side. Turn and continue to cook on the other side over medium low heat. The object is to get the steak to medium at the same time they are crispy and brown on the outside.
Warm the duxelle briefly. Remove the cooked steaks to a platter and top each with a little duxelle. Serve the remaining duxelle on the side.
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